BUENOS AIRES

by Rachelle Dragini
Photos Courtesy of
Rachelle Dragini & Home Hotel
 

(Above) The famous "Pink House" where Argentines gathered to hear Evita deliver her address.
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Passion. Intrigue. Glamour. Flavor. Unrest - Buenos Aires has it all. It’s difficult to imagine a place beating with more pulse and sensuality than this South American hotspot. There’s live music around every corner, tumultuous history behind every corner and seething unrest buried in every local. What better place to begin the most exciting chapter of your life? If that we’re enough, Buenos Aires has one answer: the tango. The fiery dance is sensual, and any pure Argentinean will be happy to drop whatever they’re doing to give you an impromptu lesson in the middle of the street. If you’re an adventurous newlywed looking for a city that’s going to share in your unbridled rapture, start planning your trip to Buenos Aires.

labocaLa Boca, the colorful Italian neighborhood where tango dancers and young soccer players roam the streets.

The Lay of the Land

Tucked along the eastern coast of Argentina, the country’s capital is now the ‘it’ stop for the most glamorous Latin Americans, making most people refer to it as the Europe of South America. There’s no doubt that the magnificent colonial Spanish architecture and tree-lined lined avenues dotted with boutiques and outdoor cafes give the city a distinct European flavor, but the Buenos Aires is alive with the Latin spirit and passion, as well. Harmless but energetic protests through the streets, cab drivers with tales of woe of the recent economic collapses and constant homage to infamous characters such as Che Guevara and Evita are frequent reminders of the colorful Argentine history. The result of such a vibrant mix of culture is the perfect blend of European sophistication and the feisty Latin passion.

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MUST SEE'S / MUST DO'S

Tango Show and Lessons
There is only one point to make about the tango for honeymooners: there is nothing more sensual you could do in this city. Throw away any perceptions you might have of a cheesy back-and-forth romp with a rose in your mouth – in the land where they’ve mastered the dance, it is a serious and passionate art. The best way to take it in is a dinner show with lessons afterwards. Try to find a show where they go through the history of the dance, so you can see how it has transformed throughout the years, and even if the lessons are a little extra, splurge so you and your new spouse can learn a romantic skill you’ll want to use forever.

airesLa Boca, Buenos AIres

La Boca

Don’t bring your black and white film to the section of town called La Boca. It’s all about color here – the store and restaurant fronts are painted in bright purples, greens and  yellows, and even the laundry hanging between buildings looks like a rainbow. The murals the line the walls depict famous Argentines or tango dancers, often with 3D elements or bright hanging lights accentuating their shapes. And the fun isn’t all in the artwork – stand still for a second and you’ll be whisked off your feet by a roaming tango dancer and his accordion player looking for a partner (and a tip!) for the dance.

Plaza de Mayo
Not many town centers have seen as much action as the Plaza de Mayo in downtown Buenos Aires. It was the center of the country’s revolution from Spain, the spot where Argentines gathered to hear Evita deliver her address from the ‘Pink House,’ the site of demonstrations every Thursday afternoon from the mothers of disappeared citizens during the ‘Dirty Wars’ of the 1980s, the spot that has seen the rise and fall of numerous dictators – and that’s only in the last 150 years. History and excitement come alive here, and if you want to get under the skin of Argentina you must stop here. Within walking distance is Calle Florida (Florida Street), a 9-block stretch of popular shops and a great place to get souvenirs and leather products.

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Plaza de Mayo, the site of the 1810 revolutions and the site of the 'Pink House' and other beautiful colonial architecture.

WHERE TO STAY
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The Four Seasons Hotel

Four Seasons Hotel, Buenos Aires

The Four Seasons does a great job of providing opulent luxury but still keeping a South American flavor inside this lavish hotel. Amenities include a full spa, pool and honeymoon or destination wedding packages. The other plus is its location in the La Recoleta district of town, the most charming and well-preserved area of town, with historic avenues dotted with trees and fantastic shops and cafes.

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Home Hotel
For an intimate and homey getaway, stay at the appropriately named Home Hotel. It has an open air, Latin feel to it, but still manages to feel tucked away amongst the bustling city. With amenities such as a bar, restaurants, spa gardens and indoor and outdoor pools, you’ll never have to leave.

Where to Eat
If you’re a vegetarian, think twice about traveling to Buenos Aires. But if you like meat even just a little, book your vacation right now. The food here is centered around the best meat in the world – mainly in the form of steak, but anything and everything is available if you’d like it. There’s a strong Italian community in Buenos Aires, too, so if you’re in the mood for pasta you’ll find something, too.

Sigue la Vaca
For at least one meal, go to a full buffet in Argentina, and if you’re really hungry, go here. The caudillo-dressed chefs are slaving away in front of a room full of open-fire grills waiting to serve you as much of any type of meat, any way you want it. Throw in a liter of wine, a fresh salad bar and delectable deserts, and your mouth will water for another meal from here for months to come. The best part is, the cost of food is almost ridiculously low in Argentina, so a weekday dinner here might only set you back about $17.

Café Tortoni
It’s touristy and crowded, yes, but you can’t pass Buenos Aires without a trip through this incredibly historic café. Since it opened in 1858, it’s fed the minds of fearless revolutionaries and important Argentine writers. It’s been beautifully preserved, and a cup of strong South American coffee among its stained glass and yellow wooden paneling, will make you feel amongst the brightest and most vibrant of Argentine locals and foreign tourists alike.



Climate
It can get painfully hot (95 humid degrees) during the summer months of December through February, but for the rest of the year it is comfortable and almost never dips lower than 50 degrees. Rain can come at any time, so be prepared with an umbrella or raincoat.

Language
The official language is Spanish, but Argentines love showing off their English skills, so don’t worry if you don’t speak any Spanish.

Time Zone
Differs between Daylight Savings Time, during October through March it is ART, during March to October it is ARST.

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Electricity
Electricity is 220v, you’ll need to buy a transformer.

Currency
Argentina uses the Argentine peso, and it would be very helpful to convert some cash before you leave and always have cash on you, (ATMs are easily found) because most places do not accept credit card.

Tipping
A tip is often expected out of American tourists because they know it is common in the U.S., so if the service is acceptable a tip of less than 10% is well-received. However, the service in Argentina leaves a lot to be desired, so don’t feel bad leaving and only paying the bill.


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Marriage Requirements
Planning a destination wedding in Buenos Aires could be complicated. The forms must be picked up at least 30 days in advance, and depending on who is working, they might not let someone from the hotel pick them up for you. If you do get the forms, you must stand in line at the Civil Ceremony office to get a ceremony that will only last a few minutes. These services are based on a first-come, first-serve basis, and as a warning, Argentine’s will do whatever they feel like, so don’t count on any legal rights. If you do get the ceremony, a medical exam will be performed before the wedding and a fee will be assessed.

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